RE-800 E-Tec ( 2012 ) Hur demonterar man QRS variatorn... ?
RE-800 E-Tec ( 2012 ) Hur demonterar man QRS variatorn... ?
Hur kan ja demontera QRS sekundären utan att köpa specialverktyget ???
-
2stroke
- Crew Member
- Inlägg: 2327
- Blev medlem: 18 februari 2011, 14:37
- Skoter: LYNX R&D Prototype.
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Re: RE-800 E-Tec ( 2012 ) Hur demonterar man QRS variatorn... ?
Jag har för mig att Lynxfun här på forumet har en bildserie om detta ! Skicka ett PM till honom och hör.
// 2stroke
* Var lojal mot ditt märke, behåll dina märkes kunskaper här på LynxTalk Forumet !! *
Kontakt : 2stroke@LynxTalk.se
* Var lojal mot ditt märke, behåll dina märkes kunskaper här på LynxTalk Forumet !! *
Kontakt : 2stroke@LynxTalk.se
Re: RE-800 E-Tec ( 2012 ) Hur demonterar man QRS variatorn... ?
Yes det har jag men det är för XU med växellåda där man kan göra allt från PTO sidan.
Frågan är hur mycket du behöver demontera, ska du riva allt för att komma åt annat eller ska du lös med t ex Helixen för att byta fjäder eller rengöra?
Principerna och tillvägagångsättet för att plocka lös hela QRS tillsammans med axeln ser du enklast på DJ/Joe Imhoffs videosnutt part 3 , QRS delen ligger från ca 4,15 och framåt
Som du ser så går det att göra med eller utan specialverktyg och har du någon rörstump samt en längre bult eller en bit gängstång av rätt dimension (tror det är M10 ) går det att göra ett tillfälligt specialverktyg liknande det High Performance kan tillhandahålla http://www.hiperf.com/cgi-bin/sh000001. ... 1865#a1865
Om det går riktigt trögt vid demontering av axeln så kärvar det troligen i lagret som sitter i sekundärtornet, då hjälper det att värma med värmepistol eller en spetsbrännare på bägge sidor on lagerfattningen.
Om du bara ska lös med Helixen för rengöring, byta rullar eller byta/justera fjädern så går det att göra från PTO sidan, lite gynekologövningar av mer handfast art en fredagkväll är inte fy skam. Beskrivningen nedan är hämtad på Dootalk och beskriver momenten väl, vid återmontering av bultarna ska de loctitas med halvhård loctite samt dras med 32 NM.
Se till att den Torx 40 bits eller nyckel du använder är av bästa kvalitet
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php ... try3689659
Text lånad från inlägg 1 i tråden, enkel och välskriven
This will not be news to many of you, but it will be to some. Last night I searched around on here for quick tips on getting this done and found that about 80% of my searches resulted in people who demanded it was necessary to open the chaincase, remove the jackshaft/secondary, and do this procedure on the bench. Thankfully another 20% alluded to the fact this extra work was entirely unnecessary and it could be quickly done right there on the sled. But few gave any specific instructions or tips, so I went to the shop and muddled thru it on my own. I figure a write-up may benefit some of you who want to install clutch kits, check rollers for wear, change springs/torsion settings, etc. It is not nearly as difficult or time consuming as so many people seem to think it is.
As someone who personally did this yesterday evening for the FIRST TIME EVER on an XR (XP should be very similar), and did it THREE TIMES in less than one hour (I was hunting for a specific preload and trying different torsion holes in the helix/clutch), I can ASSURE you that there is absolutely no need to purchase any special tools, spring compressors, gear holders, or anything of the sort...and there is CERTAINLY no need to go thru the whole hassle of removing the entire jackshaft. The whole dang thing can be done without even removing the hood or opening the right side panel.
A not-so-brief summary:
1. Track must be elevated so you can easily turn the clutch regularly to help with accessing the torx bolts. When you need a "clutch holder" while cracking loose the screws or reinstalling the helix, just set the parking brake. Obviously belt and shield need to be removed.
2. GATHER TOOLS: You'll need a T-40 torx bit...the short little ones that fit into a power screwdriver. NAPA sells 2-pack bits of these for $1.79. To turn the bit and apply torque I just used a 12" adjustable wrench. Large vice grip would also work for this. You'll need whatever tools needed to loosen and remove your belt adjuster (these change EVERY year...my 2010 just needed a phillips screwdriver and a large flat blade screwdriver.) For setting preload to a certain spec you'll need an accurate fish scale. To pull the scale backwards at 90 degrees I just clamped a small c-clamp to the outer edge of the inner clutch sheave, using wood shims to protect from marring any surfaces. If this is the first time for this sled you'll need a propane torch to heat the torx screws to release factory loc-tite. Last tool needed is a sharpie permanant marking pen.
3. The pen is critical. Anytime you disassemble a clutch like this, MARK IT FIRST!! Mark inner/outer sheaves, and I also marked my helix. Just spend 3 minutes LOOKING at the thing and studying how parts are oriented and make a few marks on sheaves/helix to remind yourself BEFORE you tear it apart...so you remember how to put the dang thing back together and have it properly balanced. Also I highly suggest you use the fish scale to check and document your torsion pressure BEFORE disassembly, in case you lose your place and are unable to remember where your spring was set.
4. If you are not familar with how to completely REMOVE your deflection adjuster, PRACTICE once now before you start removing torx screws. You do not want to be trying to learn how to remove this adjuster while fumbling with one hand trying to retain a compressed secondary spring that wants to jump out at ya, so make sure you understand it first. My 2010 spins off easily by hand, reverse-threaded. When it gets to the tip of the shaft it stops and then needs to be spread a bit wider with a flat-blade screwdriver so it can be pulled entirely off the end. Don't lose the shim that's under there.
5. Now that you know how it works, REPLACE your deflection adjuster. You can leave the clamp screw loose, but the adjuster itself MUST be in place when you remove the torx screws to retain the helix and spring...this adjuster is your spring compressor!
6. Time to start removing the 4 torx screws inside the secondary. Turn the clutch so you can reach one as easy as possible with the T-40 bit and the large adjustable wrench/vice grip. Set the parking brake. If you've never removed this helix before, these screws are held in place with factory loc-tite. I found about 60 seconds of propane torch directed at the head of the screw works well. Use care to not torch any plastics...there's plenty of room to do this safely. Now set the torch aside and OFF, and insert your torx bit CAREFULLY (HOT!!!) and give it a good crank with the adjustable wrench/vice grip to crack it loose. Remove entirely...it will turn out hard most of the way because of the loc-tite.
7. Release the parking brake, rotate clutch 90 degrees to find the next torx screw, reset brake, light your torch...repeat. Remove all 4 torx screws.
8. Now the fun part. (Side-note: This part will take some hand/arm strength. as a 40 year old man in average health/strength and a killer case of tennis elbow, I was able to do this alone. 3 times. But it was not "easy," and a helper/third hand would have most definitely made it easier. If you are concerned about your grip strength, or have arthritis/carpel tunnel, etc...be sure to get a helper. But if you are the go-to guy for getting super-tight pickle jars open, and you are patient, you ARE strong enough to easily contain this spring/helix with one hand. I was...and I'm not a body builder or anything. This is pretty much a 3 handed job, but I was able to retain the spring myself using one hand, while using my other hand and my knee as a third hand to pop off the belt adjuster. So most ANYONE should be able to retain this with TWO hands while your helper removes the adjuster with his/her two hands.) Set the parking brake again. Grab hard, push in, and twist slightly to the right on the entire helix to relieve spring pressure from the adjuster. Completely remove the belt adjuster. Now let the spring pressure STRAIGHT OUT until the legs of the helix barely clear the rollers inside the secondary. Once clear let the torsion on the spring slowly rotate the helix counter-clockwise until tension is relieved (it takes about 1/4 rotation of the helix). DO NOT LET GO OF THE HELIX. IF YOU WANT TO DUPLICATE YOUR TORSION UPON REASSEMBLY, YOU NEED TO MAKE A MENTAL NOTE (or sharpie mark) OF WHICH HOLES THE TORSION SPRING IS IN ON THE HELIX AND THE SECONDARY. Mark 'em. If you go too quickly, or if it gets away from you, it will not be the end of the world...this happened to me on the first try. The helix twisted hard and the spring went clunk when it got away from me, and I didn't know which holes it was set in. Thankfully back in step #3 I had documented the torsional weight. I was also able to study the holes closely and see that only two of them had slight wear pattern/elongation. These were clearly the 2 holes the spring had been set in, as my clutch had never been disassembled before.
9. There you go! Helix is now loose in your hands, spring is flopping loose, and you can now reassemble with whatever parts you are trying to put in there...or reset for a different torsion setting like I was doing.
10. Reassembly is basically reverse of disassembly. Set the spring in proper holes, and generally you'll need to grab that helix and give it about 1/4 twist to the right to load the spring torsionally, then get it lined up to push straight in to compress the spring. Go slowly and keep the helix square, and pay attention so you don't hog up your helix bushing on the belt adjuster threads at the end of the shaft. Note the helix has deeper cavities between 2 legs and shallower cavities between other 2 legs. If you've forgotten, I'll remind you now that the SHALLOWER cavities are to line up with the rollers. Once in position grab your belt adjuster and put it back in place so you can again let go of the tension...the adjuster will now be retaining the spring and helix, and it can be used to finish compressing the spring fully.
11. Now you just line up your sharpie marks and put a torx screw back in...start it by hand and make darn sure it's not cross-threaded. Then use the bit and wrench to turn it in all the way.
12. With ONE screw in place, you can get a semi-accurate check of torsional pressure. Grab the fish scale and small c-clamp (again wood shims to prevent marring the clutch sheave) and check it to verify you are where you want to be. If it's off, remove the helix and reset your spring. If it's pretty close you can go ahead and put the other 3 torx screws back in and check it again for a more accurate reading with all screws in place. DONE! Replace your belt, set deflection, and go for a ride!
Frågan är hur mycket du behöver demontera, ska du riva allt för att komma åt annat eller ska du lös med t ex Helixen för att byta fjäder eller rengöra?
Principerna och tillvägagångsättet för att plocka lös hela QRS tillsammans med axeln ser du enklast på DJ/Joe Imhoffs videosnutt part 3 , QRS delen ligger från ca 4,15 och framåt
Som du ser så går det att göra med eller utan specialverktyg och har du någon rörstump samt en längre bult eller en bit gängstång av rätt dimension (tror det är M10 ) går det att göra ett tillfälligt specialverktyg liknande det High Performance kan tillhandahålla http://www.hiperf.com/cgi-bin/sh000001. ... 1865#a1865
Om det går riktigt trögt vid demontering av axeln så kärvar det troligen i lagret som sitter i sekundärtornet, då hjälper det att värma med värmepistol eller en spetsbrännare på bägge sidor on lagerfattningen.
Om du bara ska lös med Helixen för rengöring, byta rullar eller byta/justera fjädern så går det att göra från PTO sidan, lite gynekologövningar av mer handfast art en fredagkväll är inte fy skam. Beskrivningen nedan är hämtad på Dootalk och beskriver momenten väl, vid återmontering av bultarna ska de loctitas med halvhård loctite samt dras med 32 NM.
Se till att den Torx 40 bits eller nyckel du använder är av bästa kvalitet
http://www.dootalk.com/forums/index.php ... try3689659
Text lånad från inlägg 1 i tråden, enkel och välskriven
This will not be news to many of you, but it will be to some. Last night I searched around on here for quick tips on getting this done and found that about 80% of my searches resulted in people who demanded it was necessary to open the chaincase, remove the jackshaft/secondary, and do this procedure on the bench. Thankfully another 20% alluded to the fact this extra work was entirely unnecessary and it could be quickly done right there on the sled. But few gave any specific instructions or tips, so I went to the shop and muddled thru it on my own. I figure a write-up may benefit some of you who want to install clutch kits, check rollers for wear, change springs/torsion settings, etc. It is not nearly as difficult or time consuming as so many people seem to think it is.
As someone who personally did this yesterday evening for the FIRST TIME EVER on an XR (XP should be very similar), and did it THREE TIMES in less than one hour (I was hunting for a specific preload and trying different torsion holes in the helix/clutch), I can ASSURE you that there is absolutely no need to purchase any special tools, spring compressors, gear holders, or anything of the sort...and there is CERTAINLY no need to go thru the whole hassle of removing the entire jackshaft. The whole dang thing can be done without even removing the hood or opening the right side panel.
A not-so-brief summary:
1. Track must be elevated so you can easily turn the clutch regularly to help with accessing the torx bolts. When you need a "clutch holder" while cracking loose the screws or reinstalling the helix, just set the parking brake. Obviously belt and shield need to be removed.
2. GATHER TOOLS: You'll need a T-40 torx bit...the short little ones that fit into a power screwdriver. NAPA sells 2-pack bits of these for $1.79. To turn the bit and apply torque I just used a 12" adjustable wrench. Large vice grip would also work for this. You'll need whatever tools needed to loosen and remove your belt adjuster (these change EVERY year...my 2010 just needed a phillips screwdriver and a large flat blade screwdriver.) For setting preload to a certain spec you'll need an accurate fish scale. To pull the scale backwards at 90 degrees I just clamped a small c-clamp to the outer edge of the inner clutch sheave, using wood shims to protect from marring any surfaces. If this is the first time for this sled you'll need a propane torch to heat the torx screws to release factory loc-tite. Last tool needed is a sharpie permanant marking pen.
3. The pen is critical. Anytime you disassemble a clutch like this, MARK IT FIRST!! Mark inner/outer sheaves, and I also marked my helix. Just spend 3 minutes LOOKING at the thing and studying how parts are oriented and make a few marks on sheaves/helix to remind yourself BEFORE you tear it apart...so you remember how to put the dang thing back together and have it properly balanced. Also I highly suggest you use the fish scale to check and document your torsion pressure BEFORE disassembly, in case you lose your place and are unable to remember where your spring was set.
4. If you are not familar with how to completely REMOVE your deflection adjuster, PRACTICE once now before you start removing torx screws. You do not want to be trying to learn how to remove this adjuster while fumbling with one hand trying to retain a compressed secondary spring that wants to jump out at ya, so make sure you understand it first. My 2010 spins off easily by hand, reverse-threaded. When it gets to the tip of the shaft it stops and then needs to be spread a bit wider with a flat-blade screwdriver so it can be pulled entirely off the end. Don't lose the shim that's under there.
5. Now that you know how it works, REPLACE your deflection adjuster. You can leave the clamp screw loose, but the adjuster itself MUST be in place when you remove the torx screws to retain the helix and spring...this adjuster is your spring compressor!
6. Time to start removing the 4 torx screws inside the secondary. Turn the clutch so you can reach one as easy as possible with the T-40 bit and the large adjustable wrench/vice grip. Set the parking brake. If you've never removed this helix before, these screws are held in place with factory loc-tite. I found about 60 seconds of propane torch directed at the head of the screw works well. Use care to not torch any plastics...there's plenty of room to do this safely. Now set the torch aside and OFF, and insert your torx bit CAREFULLY (HOT!!!) and give it a good crank with the adjustable wrench/vice grip to crack it loose. Remove entirely...it will turn out hard most of the way because of the loc-tite.
7. Release the parking brake, rotate clutch 90 degrees to find the next torx screw, reset brake, light your torch...repeat. Remove all 4 torx screws.
8. Now the fun part. (Side-note: This part will take some hand/arm strength. as a 40 year old man in average health/strength and a killer case of tennis elbow, I was able to do this alone. 3 times. But it was not "easy," and a helper/third hand would have most definitely made it easier. If you are concerned about your grip strength, or have arthritis/carpel tunnel, etc...be sure to get a helper. But if you are the go-to guy for getting super-tight pickle jars open, and you are patient, you ARE strong enough to easily contain this spring/helix with one hand. I was...and I'm not a body builder or anything. This is pretty much a 3 handed job, but I was able to retain the spring myself using one hand, while using my other hand and my knee as a third hand to pop off the belt adjuster. So most ANYONE should be able to retain this with TWO hands while your helper removes the adjuster with his/her two hands.) Set the parking brake again. Grab hard, push in, and twist slightly to the right on the entire helix to relieve spring pressure from the adjuster. Completely remove the belt adjuster. Now let the spring pressure STRAIGHT OUT until the legs of the helix barely clear the rollers inside the secondary. Once clear let the torsion on the spring slowly rotate the helix counter-clockwise until tension is relieved (it takes about 1/4 rotation of the helix). DO NOT LET GO OF THE HELIX. IF YOU WANT TO DUPLICATE YOUR TORSION UPON REASSEMBLY, YOU NEED TO MAKE A MENTAL NOTE (or sharpie mark) OF WHICH HOLES THE TORSION SPRING IS IN ON THE HELIX AND THE SECONDARY. Mark 'em. If you go too quickly, or if it gets away from you, it will not be the end of the world...this happened to me on the first try. The helix twisted hard and the spring went clunk when it got away from me, and I didn't know which holes it was set in. Thankfully back in step #3 I had documented the torsional weight. I was also able to study the holes closely and see that only two of them had slight wear pattern/elongation. These were clearly the 2 holes the spring had been set in, as my clutch had never been disassembled before.
9. There you go! Helix is now loose in your hands, spring is flopping loose, and you can now reassemble with whatever parts you are trying to put in there...or reset for a different torsion setting like I was doing.
10. Reassembly is basically reverse of disassembly. Set the spring in proper holes, and generally you'll need to grab that helix and give it about 1/4 twist to the right to load the spring torsionally, then get it lined up to push straight in to compress the spring. Go slowly and keep the helix square, and pay attention so you don't hog up your helix bushing on the belt adjuster threads at the end of the shaft. Note the helix has deeper cavities between 2 legs and shallower cavities between other 2 legs. If you've forgotten, I'll remind you now that the SHALLOWER cavities are to line up with the rollers. Once in position grab your belt adjuster and put it back in place so you can again let go of the tension...the adjuster will now be retaining the spring and helix, and it can be used to finish compressing the spring fully.
11. Now you just line up your sharpie marks and put a torx screw back in...start it by hand and make darn sure it's not cross-threaded. Then use the bit and wrench to turn it in all the way.
12. With ONE screw in place, you can get a semi-accurate check of torsional pressure. Grab the fish scale and small c-clamp (again wood shims to prevent marring the clutch sheave) and check it to verify you are where you want to be. If it's off, remove the helix and reset your spring. If it's pretty close you can go ahead and put the other 3 torx screws back in and check it again for a more accurate reading with all screws in place. DONE! Replace your belt, set deflection, and go for a ride!